October 18, 2006

wearable poppy pincushion: an accessory for the well dressed crafter

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When it comes to knitting, I'm sewing phobic.  I'd rather contemplate ways to adapt a pattern (and thereby avoid sewing) for weeks rather than sit down and mattress stitch a seam together.  Obviously, I have issues.  Regardless, as I was knitting my last pincushion I couldn't help but think there was a better way to do it, a way that didn't involve any sewing.  After a few days of mulling it over and a few test runs, I found my better way.  This is it.

The instructions here are for a small pincushion that can be worn on the wrist for this month's Whiplash competition.  The same type of construction can be used to knit a larger, less wearable pincushion if you like.  The pictures included here were taken during one of the test runs.  If you knit the pattern as written, things will look slightly different than they do here.  I'd intended to go back and rephotograph the tutorial but sick children and overcast skies have prevented me doing that.  The changes I made to the pattern since taking these pictures aren't so drastic as to make them unrecognizable but you will likely notice a difference.

As I mentioned in the Flapper Hat pattern, I'm not a professional pattern writer.  I've done my best to write this pattern clearly and accurately (it's not as easy as you might think).  If you encounter any problems or find any errors, please contact me.

Skills Required:

-long tail cast on
-knitting in the round
-k2tog
-picking up stitches
-kfb
-binding off

Materials:

-Cascade 220 color no. 8895 (red) (main color)
-Cascade 220 color no. 7830 (orange) (contrasting color #1)
-Malabrigo Merino, black (contrasting color #2)
-1 set US #9/5.5mm dpns
-tapestry needle
-poly fill -or- wool roving
-sewing/embroidery needle with large eye
-embroidery floss and/or thread in coordinating color
-4-5" of 3/4" black non-roll elastic
-small piece of wool felt in coordinating color

Gauge:
not crucial

Pattern Notes:

This pattern is great for using up left over bits of [non superwash] wool.  The amounts needed of each color are small.  I've made four pincushions of varying sizes while working on this pattern and I have enough yarn left to make more still.  The colors I've used here are meant to resemble a poppy.  You could use different colors to imply another flower (yellow and black for a black-eyed Susan, for instance) or you could mine your stash and make a flower of your own imagining.  It's your choice.  If you do use yarn from your stash that's not Cascade 220, you'll want to felt a test swatch to see how much shrinkage you get and you may need to alter the pattern accordingly.

You'll notice that I instruct you to weave in the ends of your yarn despite the fact that this project will be felted.  You can choose to secure your ends however you want but just make sure they are secure.  There's nothing like the experience of pulling a knitted piece from the washer only to find a perfectly felted hole.  Save yourself from yelling a string of expletives and make sure you've tied down or woven in your ends well.

Abbreviations:

cc=contrasting color
k2tog=knit 2 stitches together
kfb=knit into the front and back of a stitch
mc=main color
sts=stitches

Felted Poppy Pincushion:

Begin by knitting the top of the pincushion.  Using the mc and a long tail cast on, cast on 30 stitches and divide evenly (10 sts on each needle) on three dpns.  Join in the round being careful not to twist stitches.  (Use the cast on tail to mark the start of the round.)

Round 1: knit
Round 2: [k2tog, k3] to end (24 sts remain)
Round 3: knit
Round 4: [k2tog, k2] to end (18 sts remain)
Round 5: knit
Round 6: [k2tog, k1] to end (12 sts remain)
Round 7: [k2tog] to end (6 sts remain)

Break yarn leaving a 5" tail.  Draw tail through remaining stitches, pull tight, knot, weave in end, and trim.

Img_2212
top of pincushion


Next, knit the outermost petal.  Using a tapestry needle, pick up one side of the "v" of each knit stitch on the 3rd round from the cast on edge.  Transfer the stitches evenly onto three dpns, 8 sts on each needle

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ready to begin knitting the outer petal

Orient the work so that the stockinette side will be the underside of the petal.  This will cause the edge, once bound off, the curl under.  With mc, leaving a 5" tail to mark the beginning of the round, begin knitting the first round.

Round 1 (set-up round): knit into the back of each stitch
Round 2: kfb of every stitch (16 sts on each needle, 48 sts total)
Round 4-5: knit
Round 6: kfb of every stitch (32 sts on each needle, 96 sts total)
Round 7-8: knit
Round 9: bind off

Break yarn and weave in ends.

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top of pincushion with outer petal attached (Note: In the version pictured here, the petal was knit so that the stockinette side was facing up.  Make sure that you knit the petal according to my written instructions so that the stockinette side is facing down.)

Knit the innermost petal next.  Using a tapestry needle, pick up one side of the "v" of each knit stitch two rows up from where the outer petal was attached.  Transfer the stitches evenly onto three dpns, 6 sts on each needle. 

For this petal you will orient the work so that the stockinette side is facing up (as in the picture above).  This will cause the edge, once bound off, to curl in toward the center of the flower.  With cc #1, leaving a 5" tail to mark the beginning of the round, begin knitting the first round.

Round 1 (set-up round): knit into the back of each stitch
Round 2: kfb of every stitch (12 sts on each needle, 36 sts total)
Round 4-5: knit
Round 6: kfb of every stitch (24 sts on each needle, 72 sts total)
Round 7-8: knit
Round 9: bind off all sts

Break yarn and weave in ends.

Make the center of the flower by threading a tapestry needle with a yard to a yard and a half of cc #2.  Draw the needle up through the center of the top piece and then back stitch (you shouldn't need to knot the end).  Do this all the way around (360 degrees) to create a circle, going back and filling in any areas as necessary.  Pull thread through to the underside and secure. 

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top of pincushion with petals and center complete

Flip over the top of the pincushion to begin knitting the sides .  Using one of your dpns and the mc yarn, and leaving a 5" long tail, begin picking up stitches along the cast on edge of the piece.

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picking up stitches to knit the sides of the pincushion

Pick up 30 stitches total, 10 sts on each needle.  To begin knitting, turn the work so that the stockinette side will be facing out.  As you knit the sides, you'll be creating the opening where you'll stuff the pincushion.  The sides are knit flat, not in the round.

Row 1: knit
Row2: purl

Repeat these two rows once more, then bind off all stitches.  Break yarn, leaving a 5" tail.  Draw tail through the last stitch and pull tight. 

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top of pincushion with sides completed

Thread the tail through a tapestry needle and weave in the end, sewing the two sides together at the bound off edge as you do, thus creating the opening through which you'll stuff the pincushion.  Weave in the tail at the beginning of the sides now as well.

Turn the work so that the wrong side is facing.  As you did with the sides, begin picking up stitches, this time along the bound off edge, using the mc yarn and a dpn.  Again, pick up 30 stitches total, 10 sts on each needle.

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picking up stitches to knit the bottom of the pincushion (Notice that in this picture I've not joined the sides of the opening together at the bound off edge.  Make sure that you do so before you begin knitting the bottom.  You'll wind up with a gap in this edge if you don't.)

Again, turn the work so that the stockinette side will be facing up/out.  Begin knitting the bottom.

Round 1: knit
Round 2: [k2tog, k3] to end (24 sts remain)
Round 3: knit
Round 4: [k2tog, k2] to end (18 sts remain)
Round 5: [k2tog, k1] to end (12 sts remain)
Round 6: [k2tog] to end (6 sts remain)

Break yarn leaving a 5" tail.  Draw tail through remaining stitches, pull tight, knot, and trim end.

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finished flower (If knit according the to pattern as written here, your flower should have larger and more ruffled petals.)

To felt, place the knit flower in a zippered pillow case or mesh lingerie bag.  I always throw my felting projects into the washer with a load of towels.  The added friction facilitates the felting process.  Set the washer to a hot wash/cold rinse cycle and add a small amount of detergent.  I have a front loading washer and it always takes two full wash cycles to fully felt an item.  If you have a top loading washer or have never felted anything before, you may want to search for more thorough felting instructions.  There are scads online resources for this.

Once felted, remove the flower from the washer and manipulate it into the shape you'd like it to be.  My flower didn't require a lot of shaping or fiddling with.  Allow to dry.

Next, stuff the pincushion.  If you find that the opening has felted shut, use a pair of scissors to snip it open enough that you'll be able to insert a finger.  Using poly fill or wool roving, stuff the pincushion until it's as soft or firm as you'd like.  (This all sounds slightly pornographic.  Needless to say, it's not.)  Sew the opening shut using either embroidery floss or thread.

To create the wrist band, measure out enough non roll elastic to go around your wrist.  Cut the elastic about 1/4" to a 1/2" smaller than this measurement to ensure a snug fit.  Overlap the the two ends by about a quarter of an inch and sew together either by hand or using a machine set to a zigzag stitch.

Now you'll be creating a casing with wool felt for your elastic bracelet to run through.  Cut a piece of wool felt to approximately 1 1/4" x 1 3/4".  Place the felt over the seam in the elastic bracelet you've just sewn.  The longer side should be oriented horizontally, the shorter side vertically.  Pin the felt with the elastic positioned as you want it to the botom of the pincushion and create a casing by hand sewing the top edge and bottom edge of the felt to the pincushion.  Be careful not to catch the elastic in your stitching.  It should be able to move freely back and forth inside the casing.

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finished wearable pincushion


You're done.  Don your wearable pincushion and begin stowing your pins and needles in style.

whipup

September 07, 2006

mosaic how to

The lovely sonia left me a comment asking how I made the photo mosaic in state fair redux and I thought answering her question was a good opportunity to try writing a tutorial.  Truth be told, I'd wanted to use this Flickr Toy  but when I sat down to compose the post, it wasn't anywhere in my sea of bookmarks and I couldn't remember where I'd seen it.  Those of you interested in doing this (Sonia) may just want to skip my instructions and go straight there.  If you're still interested in what I did, continue reading.

1. First, I made duplicates of all my images in my photo processing software (iPhoto) and then cropped the duplicates into squares and sized them to 500 x 500 pixels.  (I think one of the Flickr Tools is an application that allows you to manipulate photos and upload using a single platform but I haven't found the time to try it out yet.)

2. I uploaded the images to Flickr (this post already resembles a Flickr ad so I'm not making that a link.  You all know where to find the site, I'm sure.)
3. I went to each individual photo's page and clicked on the Zoom_color_down button.

4. I selected the Thumbnail Size and then copied the HTML for the image.  Make sure to copy the HTML and not the photo's URL.  The later won't work for this.

5. I then came back to Typepad and pasted the code into the Edit HTML window.  I did that for every photo (yes, it took some time).  To create the spacing, I put a space between each photo, used the <p> </p> command around every three photos, and hit return after each </p>.

The process was simple but time consuming.  It probably took me about 20 minutes to do including several interruptions from my kids.  If you're lucky enough to undertake this process sans children, it will probably take you less time.

Another even simpler way to do this (aside from using the neato Flickr Toy) would be to just upload the photos through TypepadSelect the Use Costum Settings option, deselect the Wrap Text option, size the thumbnail appropriately, and then insert the image.  Being a lazy ass, I did try to go this route but ended up having issues getting the spacing I wanted.  See Sonia, I'm an amateur too.

copyright

  • 2006-2007 by Sarah Rubens. Please do not use any images or content from this site without my permission. Thank you.

photographs

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