flapper hat pattern

I've recieved a number of requests for  a pattern for these hats since entering them in September's Whiplash competition.  Here's my best effort.  Let me emphasize that I am not a professional pattern writer.  If you  notice any typos or errors, or if you are confused by any of my instructions, please let me know.

This pattern is written with the beginning knitter in mind.  The more advanced among you will be able to skip over some (perhaps many) of the details but I encourage you to read through the pattern once and have a look at some the the links I've included before you start knitting.  If any of you, beginning and more experienced knitters alike, begin to feel a jaw-clenching-neck-stiffening tension arise within you as you go over this pattern, stop reading, take a deep breath, and relax.  It's just a hat.  This is just knitting.  You can do this.

Skill Level:
advanced beginner/intermediate

Skills Needed:
-provisional cast on
-knitting in the round
-k2tog
-ssk
-yarn over

Materials:

-1 skein DK or worsted weight (chunkier weights wont work well in my opinion and finer weights will take for-bloody-ever to knit) wool/wool blend -or- cotton/cotton blend yarn
waste yarn
-2 circular needles -or- 1 16" circular needle and 1 set dpns in the size needed to obtain the gauge of the yarn you're using
-stitch markers
-tapestry needle
-sewing/embroidery needle w/large eye
-3 colors of wool felt
-embroidery floss
-button (vintage is nice)

Gauge:
Dependent on the yarn you choose.  Refer to the label.

Pattern Notes:
Guess what?  You have to do the math.  Don't get excited.  It's just math.  You can do it.  Really.  If I can, you can too.

Begin by deciding what type of yarn you want to use.  Let's say you've chosen a worsted weight yarn that gets 5 sts to an inch on U.S. #7 needles (Let me just remind you that it's always a good idea to do a gauge swatch.  Doing so will prevent math/fit issues.  There, I said it.  [I had too.]  I promise not to nag you anymore... maybe...).  Measure the head that you'll be knitting the hat for.  Subtract 1-2" (more if you're knitting with cotton) to assure a snug fit so that the hat won't slide down over the eyes.  Take that measurement and multiply it by the number of sts per inch that your yarn gets.  Your formula will look something like this:

19 inch head - 2" for a snug fit = 17" and 17" x 5 sts per inch = 85 cast on sts

See?  Easy.  Now comes the nuance.

You will be knitting a folded picot edge.  To do so, you will need to cast on an even number of stitches.  In addition, you will have to choose between raglan method of decreasing or the more traditional method that results in a star shape.  For the traditional method you will need to cast on a number of stitches divisible by 8 (You could choose another number if you wish.  My instructions will simply be for a number divisible by 8.  If you want to choose another number you should be able to extrapolate.)  For the raglan method you will need to cast on a number of stitches divisible by 4 (again, you could choose another number...).  Furthermore, it would be good if the sum of the number of stitches divided by 4 (in other words, 1/4 of the stitches) was an even number.  It's not absolutely essential but it makes the last bit of decreasing tidier.  In the math example given above, rounding down to 80 stitches or up to 88 stitches will accomplish all of these things.

Techniques:
There are two aspects of this pattern that qualify as advanced, or more advanced, techniques.  The first is the provisional (also called "invisible") cast on.  Fear not, beginning knitters.  You too can do a provisional cast on.  I'm not going to tell you how though.  I'm going to let far more gifted knitters do that.  For the ultimate pictorial tutorial on provisional cast ons by Eunny, go here.  For video tutorials by Knitting at Knoon and KnittingHelp.com, go here and here (scroll down).  I prefer the crochet method referred to by Eunny as "Invisible Crochet Cast On I" and demonstrated in the Knitting at Knoon video.  I encourage you to look through all of these resources and choose for yourself what you think will work best for you though.

The second more advanced technique is the folded picot edge.  The best tutorial that I've found of this technique is by Melinda of Purlwise and can be found here (she includes instructions for a provisional cast on ["Invisible Crochet Cast On II" as referred to by Eunny]).  I would augment Melinda's tutorial by saying that I find it easier to place the freed provisional stitches onto another needle as I unravel the waste yarn rather than placing one freed stitch at a time onto the left hand needle.  This is just my preference.  I use a dpn and I free up about 10 or so stitches at a time.  When done in this fashion knitting the provisional stitches and live stitches (the stitches on your left hand needle) together is similar to doing a three needle bind-off (scroll down).  Watching the KnittingHelp.com video may be helpful but let me emphasize that you will not be binding off stitches.  You are simply knitting stitches together.  Got it?

Abbreviations:

k2tog = knit 2 stitches together
pm = place marker
ssk = slip 2 stitches as if to knit and then knit those stitches together
yo = yarn over

Flapper Hat I: (Traditional Decrease Method)

Flapper Hat I

Using a length of waste yarn, provisionally cast on a multiple of 8 sts.  Place marker to mark the beginning of the row and join in the round making sure not to twist stitches.

Rows 1-5: knit
Row 6: [yo, k2tog] to end.
Rows 7-11: knit
Row 12: Fold the cast on edge up so that it's even with the sts on the needle. Carefully free the provisional sts from the wast yarn (you can do this one at a time as demonstrated in the Purlwise  tutorial or you can place the freed sts on another needle as I've described above) and knit together with the live sts on the left hand needle, one live st + one provisional sts at a time.  Repeat to end.

Continue in stockinette st, knitting every round, until work measures 5" to 6" (less for child sized hat, more for an adult sized hat).

Shape Crown
Note: Switch to dpns or two circular needles when necessary.  Also, if you'd like, you can substitute ssk or any other type of single decrease for k2tog.  In the hat pictured above, I used ssk.

Row 1: [k2tog, knit 6] to end.
Row 2: knit
Row 3: [k2tog, knit 5] to end.
Row 4: knit
Row 5: [k2tog, knit 4] to end.
Row 6: knit
Row 7: [k2tog, knit 3] to end.
Row 8: [k2tog, knit 2] to end.
Row 9: [k2tog, knit 1] to end.
Row 10: [k2tog] to end.

Break yarn leaving an 8" tail.  Draw tail through remaining stitches, pull tight, knot, weave in end with tapestry needle and trim.

Flapper Hat II: (Raglan Decrease Method)

Flapper Hat II

Using a length of waste yarn, provisionally cast on a multiple of 4 sts.  Place marker to mark the beginning of the row and join in the round making sure not to twist stitches.  Knit the same as for the Flapper Hat I until it's time to shape the crown.  At this point, set-up to begin shaping the crown.

Set-up Row: Slip marker denoting beginning of the round, [knit 1/4 of the stitches, pm] 3 times, knit to end, slip marker.

Shape Crown
Note: Make sure the stitch marker used to denote the beginning of the round is a different color than the others used and switch to dpns or two circular needles when necessary.

Row 1: [k2tog, knit to 2 stitches before marker, ssk, slip marker].  Repeat 3 more times until end of row is reached.  8 sts decreased.
Row 2: knit

Repeat these two rows until 32 sts remain, then knit [Row 1] 4 more times (removing markers on last row) until 8 sts remain.

Break yarn leaving an 8" tail.  Draw tail through remaining stitches, pull tight, knot, weave in end with tapestry needle and trim.

Button Flower Applique: (I & II)

Flower Appliques (Notice the screwed-up blanket stitching on the first flower.  It's all good.)

Cut out two circles of wool felt.  Each should be a different color and one should be smaller than the other.  I used the top and bottom of a demitasse cup as my template.  Cut out two leaf shapes from your third color of wool felt.  I did this freehand.  If you like you can search for an image or stencil to use as a template.  Stack the smaller circle of felt on top of the larger and sandwich the leaf shapes between them or underneath the larger circle so that all of the layers will be sewn together either when you attach the button or when you stitch the flower to the hat.  Attach your button, sewing through all the layers with embroidery floss.  Blanket stitch around the edge of larger circle, attaching the flower to the hat.  Once all the way around the circle, pull the thread through to the back, secure the end, and trim excess.  Repeat around the smaller circle if desired.

Comments

[laurie]

This is adorable! I'm not a knitter, but this definitely makes me want to learn!

[Julie]

Such a cute hat! Thanks for sharing the pattern!

[Ali]

I looked at the felt flower pattern and HURRAH - blanket stitch - I think I have it cracked! Result! The rest of the hat will have to wait.....

[Donna]

Can't wait to give it a go!

[Isela]

This little hat is adorable

[memeeflye]

these hats are beautiful!

[Hilari]

This is so cute!!! I'll definitely have to add this to my must knit list!

[Camille]

These hats are really cute, great work! Perhaps a nice and slightly easier variation would be to replace the button flower with a ribbon woven in a band around at the seam where the folded picot edge meets the rest of the hat and tie it with a bow. Thanks!